A rainbow Lorikeet
What a strange and wonderful world it is that I live in now, one where winter means shorts, sandals, and tans. It’s been an interesting time here in Cairns, Australia this last little while as we get all our ducks in a row for Indonesia. We are now just about two weeks from leaving Australia, and while I don’t feel for an instant that I’ve seen enough of it it’s hard to explain how excited I am to see the world’s largest archipelago.
The Cairns bus station
A trawler named ‘Prawn Star’ in Cairns, serving beer and fresh seafood.
Everything is about to change. Australia is a new and different place for an American, but even so there are a lot of cultural similarities and a common language. Locals still root for their sports teams, bars and clubs still fill up on weekend nights, and friends still tease each other relentlessly. It’s quite easy to become comfortable, and knowing that it was just a first stepping stone I hadn’t done incredibly extensive research on the place before coming here.
Indonesia is an entirely different sail pattern. The country covers a huge geographical area, encompassing about 18,000 different islands, more than 100 active volcanoes, and quite literally hundreds of unique cultures and languages. It’s been a Dutch colony, the source of now-everyday spices such as nutmeg and cloves, and a major base for allied operations in the Pacific during World War II. It’s a country that holds within it major populations of three of the worlds largest religions (Islam, Christianity, and Hinduism) as well as significant amounts of native animistic religions and traditions. World class surf breaks and diving locations are peppered throughout the islands at all times of the year, and some of the rarest animals on earth call Indonesia home such as the Sumatran Tiger, Orangutan, Komodo Dragons, and the nearly extinct Javan Rhinoceros. There is so much to see that one could easily spend a lifetime exploring there and never see all of it, and we have only 3 months.
The night markets in Cairns, with our friends from ‘Mikado’ in the foreground.
So how do you prepare to enter and live in a place so foreign and vast? Contact with the government of the country you’re traveling to is always wise, and in this case necessary in order to enter. Doing this as part of a group also alleviates a large stress point of traveling somewhere new, as you have at least a number of people that will be going through the same processes as you are. As I’ve mentioned before, we are going as part of the Sail 2 Indonesia rally for this exact reason, and there is an added major benefit of having a familiar group to travel with in such a different place. In the case of sailors, rallies provide a schedule and a point of familiarity and stability around which to plan your trip. That being said, there are many places off the beaten path that we on Huck wish to see and while we will undoubtedly be linking up with rally locations throughout our time in Indonesia our goal is to see what we want to see. After all, what’s the point of going to a fascinating, foreign place if you don’t step outside your comfort zone every now and then?
Our Indonesia map in early planning stages, with rally destinations marked with pink post-its.
So after you have a rough outline of your trip, in our case already provided by the wonderful folks organizing the rally, the next step is research, research, and more research. What’s your ‘can’t miss’ list? What cell provider should you use? Where can you get fuel, money, or food and water? How safe is it in those places? What things can you take in or out of the country? Will English suffice, or do I need to know some other language to get by? I could make an entire blog post just asking all the questions that need to be explored, you really can’t know too much when you’re going somewhere new. In addition to the resources provided by the rally, we’ve picked up a language app, an Indonesian language book, a physical map of the region, and have been referencing a copy of Andy Scott’s “Cruising Guide to Indonesia” to help plan our trip.
‘Huck’ organizing 3+ months worth of provisions, even before we picked up meat and produce.
The last real step is to take care of anything that you can’t once you’ve left. ‘Western’ quality yacht supplies and marinas are few and far between in Indonesia so we’ve taken care to replace or back up important things like engine start batteries, marine varnish, and others. Red meat, wine, and cheese are all either rare, nonexistent, or of poor quality so we’ve stacked our freezer and fridge high with as much as we could, and stashed away wine in every available corner of the boat in the hopes that it will last for a whole season.
These trees seem common in Australian cities and though I dont know what they are they are pretty magnificent.
I sit now writing this post in the deep hum of our engine warming up to leave Cairns and the ‘western’ world behind, and I am equal parts apprehension and excitement. Australia is a beautiful place that I will miss and was in many ways an adventure all it’s own, but I can’t help but feel that it was preparation, a staging ground for the exotic world and voyages we are about to embark on. This is the step from the familiar into the unknown, and no amount of research or preparation will make it any less exciting or thrilling, and I can’t wait to begin to see this new strange world.